Sasha DiGiulian was recently profiled in The Washington Post; it’s an excellent article, and features DiGiulian discussing how she got started in climbing and her plans for the future.
Raw footage of Sasha DiGiulian on Era Vella (5.14d/9a), in Margalef, Spain.
The completed film will be featured in Reel Rock 7 this fall.
‘Starting next month, that focus will be more important than ever as she begins college. She hopes to study sports business, and she’d like to be more involved in student life than she was in high school — to be as “normal” a college student as possible. She’ll also be the only freshman who returns from a World Cup event in Munich for orientation, flies to Paris for a week of climbing, comes back to school for a week before flying to a Seattle event, returns for a week at Columbia and then flies to Atlanta for another World Cup competition.
“It’s this mental battle, because I keep convincing myself that everything will work out fine,” DiGiulian says, “that I’ll be training religiously and be at all the competitions, but at the same time, I know Columbia will be quite rigorous. Sometimes I’m completely fine, but then I’ll go through spurts — like the other night, it hit me, and I got really nervous. I don’t know how I’m going to do it.
“Most of my competitors, in the World Cup circuit especially, are just climbing,” DiGiulian adds. “But I decided to go back to school. Because I know that, in the long term, I can’t be a climber forever.”’
Posted in Climbing, News, Photos, Video
Tagged 5.14d, 9a, Era Vella, newspaper, photos, pics, rock climbing, Sasha DiGiulian, Video, vimeo, Washington Post
As we’ve previously mentioned, in 2011 Petzl sponsored “RocTrip China 2011″, an event where a group of climbers from the East and West put up more than 250 new multi- and single pitch routes in the Gétù Valley in southwest China. The list of climbers includes Chris Sharma, Sasha DiGiulian, Lynn Hill, Dani Andrada, Daila Ojeda, Dave Graham, Emily Harrington, Enzo Oddo, Joe Kinder, Ethan Pringle and many others. The video footage from this epic trip has finally been edited into a wonderful short film that highlights the scenery and culture of China, brief interviews with the climbers, and, of course, the climbing. This one is really special, enjoy!
Here’s a a slideshow of photos from the event via Petzl’s Flickr:
Posted in Climbing, Photos, Video
Tagged China, Chris Sharma, Daila Ojeda, Dani Andrada, Getu, Lynn Hill, rock climbing, RocTrip, Sasha DiGiulian
Late last month, a group of San Diego climbers worked to remove a huge graffiti “10” from a highly visible boulder on Ramona’s Mt. Woodson. The graffiti first appeared in 2010 at the end of the school year, and a huge “11” appeared on the opposite side of the road last year. Hoping to break the cycle of annual tagging and avoid a 12 this year, Chris Lindner, Sean Arlantico, Shane Rock, Nate Claycomb, Samuel Vandegrift, and Myles Vandegrift used a biodegradable chemical called Taginator (donated by Allied Climbers of San Diego) to scrub the rock clean.
They carried nearly seventy lbs. of water, 2 bottles of Taginator, 5 wire brushes, 2 extension poles, 2 ropes, and all of their climbing gear on the 25 minutes hike up to the rock. At the end of the day, the boulder was restored to its original condition, and this will hopefully help prevent future defacement of the rock on Mt. Woodson. The climbing community of San Diego owes them their thanks!
“Please don’t do this cause I like nature.” Exactly.
Tepuis are table top mountains found primarily in Venezuela; many people are probably familiar with them thanks to the 2009 film Up, much of which is set among the tepuis. For a brief glimpse of why tepuis are so remarkable, see this short video clip from the TV series Planet Earth:
Because the tepuis are massive, remote, fascinating, and typically composed of sandstone, it’s easy to understand why they would be attractive to climbers. So, in February 2012 Sean Villanueva, Nicolas Favresse, Stephane Hanssens, and Jean-Louis Wertz set out for an epic 45-day push to establish new routes on Amuri Tepui, which features a 600 meter overhanging wall. During their time there they endured a four-day approach (and here I’ve been complaining of anything over an hour!), some monster fauna (including spiders ON THE WALL), a 130-foot whipper, and some nasty rope burn.
I’ve posted a few pictures here, but I really hope you’ll check out their website and/or Facebook page, where you can read all the details of their trip and view many more photos.
Click here for a more detailed account of the group’s adventures by climber Nico Favresse.
Last year, Petzl sponsored “RocTrip China 2011”, during which a group of climbers from the East and West put up more than 250 new multi- and single pitch routes in the Gétù Valley in southwest China. As you can see, the area is breathtaking, with massive limestone walls containing interesting pockets and stalactites. One of the most remarkable new routes is La Voie du Milieu (The Middle Route), which goes 250m up in 8 pitches, the hardest single pitch coming in at 8b+/5.14a. This video chronicles the creation and first ascent of this awesome new route.
This video shows some of the other climbs and scenery in this astonishing area.
A .pdf guidebook has been produced for Gétù, you can download it here.
Here’s a a slideshow of photos from the event via Petzl’s Flickr:
Ashima Shiraishi on Power of Silence (V10)
The last few weeks have seen a spate of impressive achievements by pre-teens. First, 10-year-old Ashima Shiraishi sent Crown of Aragorn (V13) in Hueco Tanks. Previously, Ashima notched Power of Silence (V10), also at Hueco, when she was only 8. Although there is no video currently released of her Crown ascent, here’s some footage of her at a competition at age 9.
Another impressive recent ascent of The Aquarium (V12) at Bishop, CA is credited to 11-year-old Mirko Caballero. In addition to bouldering, Mirko has been crushing it on sport routes too- he sent Fugitive (5.13a) at Jailhouse, CA last year when he was just 10. You can check out Mirko’s blog here.
We also recently featured 12-year-old Drew Ruana on Vicious Fish (5.13d) at Smith Rock. I’m not sure what to expect next; will this diaper-clad toddler be the next to crack V10?
Another thing I’d like to know- where’s that kid’s spotter?
Posted in Bouldering, Climbing, Photos, Video
Tagged Ashima Shiraishi, Bouldering, Climbing, Drew Ruana, Hueco Tanks, kids, Mirko Caballero, V10, V13
Check out this cool profile of Aimee Roseborrough, featured in this Good Morning America report that films her climbing Headstone at Joshua Tree while 34 weeks pregnant.
On a recent trip to Joshua Tree, I also climbed this formation, and got a few good photos. It appears the routes she’s on are SW Corner and Cryptic.
SW Corner roughly follows the arete visible at the center of the taller formation on the left, while Cryptic goes up the arete on the right side.